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It doesn't strike me as something worrisome. Some of our catfish also have their cranial shield bone look like that. If this was an abrupt change in the looks of yours, then this may warrant a closer observation.
IDK what adding potassium (in what form? chloride? sulfate?) would do, it depends on the dose.
IDK what aquarium co-op easy green is or does.
For me as a non-plant guy, the WC is too small but if you have a lot of efficient plants, then maybe it's ok.
NO3 is kinda high for a planted tank. May indeed warrant larger and more frequent WCs.
As the first advice on the pH, I'd strongly advise not to mess with the pH but only make sure it is stable at its natural value. Even if you do everything correct (which is not trivial), sooner or later one will slip up or make an error and wipe out the tank.
In a well run tank the ammonia reading by the API test tube test should be firmly at 0 at all times. Perhaps you have trouble reading it right. I'd recommend using a test tube of known ammonia free water (with the reagents added same as to the tank water) as a reference to compare colors, not the paper color chart.
If fish feed, this is a sign that there is nothing majorly wrong.
It doesn't strike me as something worrisome. Some of our catfish also have their cranial shield bone look like that. If this was an abrupt change in the looks of yours, then this may warrant a closer observation.
IDK what adding potassium (in what form? chloride? sulfate?) would do, it depends on the dose.
IDK what aquarium co-op easy green is or does.
For me as a non-plant guy, the WC is too small but if you have a lot of efficient plants, then maybe it's ok.
NO3 is kinda high for a planted tank. May indeed warrant larger and more frequent WCs.
As the first advice on the pH, I'd strongly advise not to mess with the pH but only make sure it is stable at its natural value. Even if you do everything correct (which is not trivial), sooner or later one will slip up or make an error and wipe out the tank.
In a well run tank the ammonia reading by the API test tube test should be firmly at 0 at all times. Perhaps you have trouble reading it right. I'd recommend using a test tube of known ammonia free water (with the reagents added same as to the tank water) as a reference to compare colors, not the paper color chart.
If fish feed, this is a sign that there is nothing majorly wrong.
